In essence this wine combines the pumpernickel-sweetness of Meunier with a walnutty richness typical of this part of the Marne, and what makes it most wonderful is that it’s both extremely articulate and openly friendly. It is class defined and enacted.
If you think such qualities are “mainstream”, shame on you. Such qualities are rare, my friend, and you do not have the privilege to take them for granted.
This is based on 2013 now, deg. 7/2018. Nicolas’ NV is generally older than most, and longer on the cork before it’s shipped, and that’s because he understands and cares that the wine isn’t too raw. There’s 7% reserve wine from 2009, and the assemblage is typical—40% Meunier, 35% CH and 25% PN. It’s a delicious, classy and flawless edition of this wine; the fine vintage ’13 shows. The lacy needlepoint detail of ’13 really sings with the charming dark-bread of the Meunier.
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