100% Riesling

Food pairings: Rich pâtés including foie gras, blue-veined cheeses such as Stilton, Roquefort or Gorgonzola, sharp Cheddar, hot and spicy dishes, savory roasts and stews, and fruit desserts that are not too sweet, such as an apple tart.

Scores:

• 96 points, James Suckling

Winemaking: Rather than selecting berries in successive passes, Selbach-Oster harvests the Anrecht en bloc once the parcel is optimally ripe, picking green, golden and botrytised berries together to capture the whole terroir, an approach Johannes Selbach began in 2003. The grapes ferment spontaneously and the wine is aged in old Mosel fuder casks, made in a hands-off way without fining.

Vineyards and terroir: Anrecht is a south-facing parcel and the most prized piece of the Zeltinger Himmelreich, ranked in the top categories of the 1868 Prussian vineyard classification. Its blue Devonian slate breaks down into the deepest subsoil of the estate's en-bloc parcels, mixed with humus and loam. Lying farther from the river and the village than Rotlay and Schmitt, it is a touch cooler, but no less excellent.

Family and history: The Selbach family's heritage in wine dates to 1600: its ancestors shipped wine down the Mosel in their own boats, in oak barrels made by the cooper Matthias Oster. Today Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara run the estate with their son Sebastian, keeping the traditional 1,000-liter fuder casks of Johannes's late father Hans. Christian Vogt, for many years the winemaker at Karthäuserhof, joined the team in 2016.