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Ripe, jammy fruit, currant and plum lead this Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with dried herbs, licorice, anise, orange peel, roasted meat and tar. Ample, silky and velvety, with fine, supple tannins and a long, bright finish of spice and sandalwood smoke.
Available in store
Close70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah
Food pairings: Red meats and game.
Scores:
Winemaking: The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand and destemmed, then fermented in concrete vats with pump-overs over four weeks. 2022 was a sunny year with an early harvest that began in August.
Vineyards and terroir: The cuvée takes its name from the countless rounded stones (cailloux) in the vineyards, which also gave the domaine its original name. It is drawn from several plots: Bois de la Ville and Les Serres, whose poor, free-draining gravel gives concentrated juice; Farguerol and Cansaud, whose red and blue clays bring aromatic richness; and Cabrières and Revès, whose chalky limestone adds structure and length. The vines average 60 years of age.
Family and history: The Brunel family has been in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since the 18th century and has devoted itself entirely to wine for five generations. In 1954 Lucien Brunel created the Les Cailloux brand, and the estate became known as Domaine Les Cailloux. André Brunel took over in 1971, expanded into Côtes-du-Rhône and Vin de Pays, launched the Cuvée Centenaire in 1989 and was among the first in Châteauneuf-du-Pape to grow cover crops and farm without chemicals. His son Fabrice joined him in 2012 and now leads the domaine; André Brunel died in 2022. The estate has been certified High Environmental Value (HVE) since 2020.
In the pictures: The late André Brunel in his vineyard; tending the vines, with Mont Ventoux in the distance; and the vats in the cellar. Photographs from Domaine André Brunel.