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A benchmark Spätlese from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr: white peach, honeysuckle, nectarine, pineapple and Meyer lemon over wet stones and herbs, the sweetness seamlessly integrated into a bright, salty slate tension and a nearly endless finish.
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Close100% Riesling
Food pairings: Peking duck, pork with apple compote, poultry in cream sauce, stewed mushrooms, and richly spiced dishes such as Thai green curry.
Scores:
Winemaking: Joh. Jos. Prüm works with minimal intervention: spontaneous fermentation and relatively late bottling shape wines that are famously slow to unfold and exceptionally long-lived. The 2023 is concentrated and intense yet elegant, with a deep, spicy nose and a dense, seriously structured, salty finish.
Vineyards and terroir: The Wehlener Sonnenuhr is named for the sundial that Jodocus Prüm built among the vines in 1842. The site faces south-southwest on grey Devonian slate, with gradients of up to about 70 percent; its thin, rocky soil has a very high stone content, and much of the estate's holding here is planted with old, ungrafted vines.
Family and history: The Prüm family has been rooted in Wehlen since 1156. The estate took its present form in 1911, when the family holdings were divided and Johann Josef Prüm founded Joh. Jos. Prüm. Sebastian Prüm led it until 1969, when Dr. Manfred Prüm took over, and since 2007 his daughter Katharina has run the estate. In 1949 Joh. Jos. Prüm made the first deliberately produced Mosel Eiswein, from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
In the pictures: Katharina Prüm (photo: Peter Bender, via Boucherville), and the 1842 sundial in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard (photo: pruemwein.de).
