100% Albillo Real

Food pairings: Japanese or Peruvian dishes, oily fish, cheeses and white meats.

Winemaking: The grapes are picked by hand at night and carefully selected. Whole clusters are pressed and fermentation starts naturally with the grapes' own yeasts. The wine then aged for eight months in used 500-liter French oak barrels, with bâtonnage at every full moon, and 30% was made without added sulfites for greater richness and creaminess. It is clarified naturally by low winter temperatures and racking, without fining or filtration.

Vineyards and terroir: The Albillo Real comes from mountain plots such as El Pañuelo, Juez, Pasaderas and Andrinoso, dry-farmed vineyards at around 800 meters planted in the 1930s and 1940s in San Martín de Valdeiglesias, D.O. Vinos de Madrid. They are farmed organically on sandy soils with granitic rocks; the granite gives the wine its slightly saline finish.

Family and history: Las Moradas de San Martín, at Pago de los Castillejos on the edge of the Sierra de Gredos, was founded in 1999 to recover the area's old vineyards. Winemaker Isabel Galindo works with as little intervention as possible, and both the winery and the vineyards are certified organic. Each Albillo Real label carries a fragment of a short story by the writer Óscar Sipán.

In the pictures: Tasting from the barrel in the Las Moradas de San Martín cellar; an old vine on the estate; and harvest in the vineyard.