96% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Sémillon

Food pairings: Oysters, scallops, lobster and crab, white fish in a creamy sauce, bouillabaisse, herb-roasted chicken, goat cheese, and salads or vegetable dishes with fresh green herbs.

Scores:

• 97 points, Jeb Dunnuck (Audrey Frick)
• 97 points, James Suckling (Jim Gordon)

Winemaking: Under winemaker Robert Fiore, the grapes were picked and sorted by hand, pressed as whole clusters and fermented in barrel with native yeasts, in French oak from select artisan coopers. Malolactic fermentation is deliberately avoided to preserve the fruity, zesty character of the Sauvignon Blanc. Each lot aged separately on its lees with gentle bâtonnage before the final blend was assembled. In 2023 a cool, very wet winter and spring delayed budbreak until mid-April, nearly a month later than usual, and very small clusters set a smaller crop than in 2022. A temperate season without major heat let the small, concentrated berries ripen slowly and keep a lively acidity. The Sauvignon Blanc was picked a full month later than in 2022, from September 21 to October 13, and the Sémillon harvest stretched to November 2.

Vineyards and terroir: 'L'Après-Midi' is one of Peter Michael's two estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon blends. Its grapes grow alongside the estate's red Bordeaux varieties in the Les Pavots vineyard, on the slopes of Mount St. Helena in Knights Valley, in the remote northeastern corner of Sonoma County. Steep slopes, rocky and perfectly drained soils of volcanic-origin rhyolite, a south-facing exposure and cool air at altitude, with just enough heat, let the white and red Bordeaux varieties ripen fully.

Family and history: Sir Peter Michael, an engineer by training and an entrepreneur who grew up in Croydon, South London, discovered the Knights Valley ranch in 1982 and pledged that it would remain under family stewardship for 100 years. He founded Peter Michael Winery in 1987 and was knighted in 1989. 'L'Après-Midi', French for "the afternoon", was named for the pleasures of a slow and lazy afternoon, which according to Sir Peter is a good time to start enjoying this wine. His son Paul, who helped plant the first vines of Les Pavots in 1989 at the age of 18, and Paul's wife Emily carry the family vision forward today.

In the pictures: Members of the Michael family among the redwoods, and the estate's mountain vineyards in Knights Valley (photos: Peter Michael Winery, via its distributor Skurnik Wines).